Arizona Hiking Retrospectives: Bartlett Lake

IMG_0375
Water in Arizona!

As it turns out, one of my favorite things to do in Arizona didn’t have anything to do with hiking at all!  Not long after I got over my near death experience, this was one of the first trips that I made.  I drove to Bartlett Lake and just took pictures, walked out on the docks and generally just enjoyed the sights and sounds.

It is a beautiful place.  I’ve taken my kayaks out there a couple times as well.

IMG_0382
I really can’t walk on water, it just looks that way.

Let me know if you’ve taken trips that don’t involve much hiking that you enjoyed just as much as your super cool hikes!

IMG_0378
Typical scenery at Bartlett…
Advertisements

Arizona Hiking Retrospectives: Kendrick Peak

20150726_113342.jpg
At the summit of Kendrick Peak

WAY back in 2015 my friend Michael and I climbed Kendrick Peak.  Kendrick Peak is the twelfth tallest mountain in Arizona and was one of my favorite Arizona hikes.  You have incredible views of the San Francisco Peaks (Humphreys Peak), Bill Williams Mountain in Williams, and the various cinder cones in the area.

The hike is about nine miles and constituted about 2700 feet of accumulated elevation gain (AEG).

20150726_104617
Fire watch cabin

At the time, this was the highest that I had ever been, elevation wise.  Although I have not climbed Humphreys Peak yet, after this hike I had gotten to 11,500 feet on a different hike in this area.  I found that unlike my hiking partner that day, I didn’t really struggle with the elevation much and barely noticed the thin air.  There is no rhyme or reason to this as I had only been living in Arizona for a few months at the time that I did this hike.

20150726_114619
Typical views on the way up Kendrick Peak
Screen Shot 2018-05-04 at 7.28.57 AM
The route is never steep, but it is relentless. Most AZ hikers can accomplish this climb.

The Mostly Triumphant Return of Hiking Jason

IMG_1820 copy“Been on any cool hikes lately”   

‘Not really.’  ——-Me.

“That’s a shame… that’s WHO YOU ARE…”  —— Unnamed coworker

“Hey, remember that 18-mile hike you did when you said your back hurt… I looked at your track and you rode with someone the last half mile on the jeep road.  You’re a fraud, and I’m going to tell everyone…You never deserved to be in Backpacker”  —–Prominent guy in the Phoenix hiking community

….

I hiked today for the first time in a LONG time.  It felt good, familiar yet also foreign.  I realized oddly, that I missed the smells and the sounds alot more than I missed the sights.  My lungs were fine, one of my ankles hurt a little bit and my back hurt from the weight of the 3 gallons of water that I always take in my Camelbak, mostly out of habit.  But otherwise I was fine.

But what have I been doing for a year…

I wish I could say that I’ve been writing the next great American novel, have been in some foreign country building a water source for underprivileged children, or having founded a successful non-profit.

But I can’t.  The truth is, I’ve been doing whatever I wanted to do, which mainly has consisted of spending time at home with my family, watching sports and doing my other nerdly hobbies.

For months, I beat myself up about it…  Still do/did.  But I also realized that unlike the trails and the mountains, my family won’t always be here.  My son’s already left for college and my daughter’s about to be in the eleventh grade.  My dogs that I play with almost constantly will one day die.

But the trails will always be there.  The fact is… they don’t miss you.  They also don’t really call you.  We are called to them from within and for the last year, I just didn’t want to do it.  Hiking became work.  Work became obsession.  Accomplishments meant little because no matter what I accomplished, it wasn’t as good as someone else.  My hills and mountains weren’t the Rockies, or the Cascades, or Nepal, or insert whatever other cool place that you can imagine or have lusted over. Instead of going to Iceland to hike glaciers, I got up every morning at 5:25 and went to work.

I also became jealous and envious over time.  But not of the pretty pictures, not of the hikes, and not even of the places that my friends were going, but of their desire.  Because I didn’t have any.  None.

Truthfully, what I did have was fear.  Not of snakes or animals, but fear that I’d never have any desire to hike or go outside again.

But one thing that I have learned in a year is that what we do is not who we are, and its not what we are meant for.  Although I don’t really understand why, people tell me that I inspire them.  But as some have told me its not what I do (or in this case did) its how I care about them, tell them that I am proud of them, tell them that in many cases that I love them for who they are, and not for what they do.

Today, I still hiked over 3 miles per hour, which I suppose is probably because of my long legs.  I stopped and watched a javelina make its way down into a wash.  I took a ton of pictures for a three mile hike.  Basically, I did it my way.  I hiked for myself, and for nobody else.

 

 

 

 

Stewart Mountain(s)

20161029_094836View of Peaks 2961 and 2931

This past October, I climbed Stewart Mountain, Peak 2961 and Peak 2931. If you’re familiar with Phoenix, these peaks overlook Saguaro Lake and yield wonderful views of Four Peaks. These are my favorite type of mountains, loose pea gravel … (sarcasm)

I had arrived at the trailhead (pull off) before daybreak and used my headlamp for the first half mile or so.  Being October, I didn’t worry too terribly much about snakes (I rarely do) and saw none.  It was unseasonably warm, however maybe I should have!

But I made it first up 2961, down, then over to Stewart Mountain then over to 2931. 2931 marked what had been a long string for me of the shortest mountain being the hardest. It seemed the steepest and had the loosest scree.   These are mountains that you will not find another soul on.  Ever.  There is no trail whatsoever and there really are not any cairns either.  These are fairly safe mountains that are good for a Phoenician to introduce themselves to route finding and off trail adventure.

20161029_083146
View of Four Peaks (and Browns Peak at far left, the County HP)

The ~1 mile boulder hopping chute down between Peaks 2961 and 2931 held a first for me. I could feel a rock I was standing on slightly vibrating from I believe a rattlesnake or two (possibly a den) below it. I looked, but never saw them and kept moving. The smooth granite boulders in the wash/draw/chute are particularly slippery and my hiking shoes were getting low on tread so that was fun. 

All in all, a great day.

20161029_082218Summit View from atop Stewart looking at the Superstition Mountains (r) and Weaver’s Needle (l)

 

stewart routeThe route

Hike Statistics:

3.73 miles
1819 ft AEG (Accumulated Elevation Gain)
1145 ft of actual gain
3:39 elapsed time

Trailhead coordinates:    33.588, -111.542
Vehicle needed: Passenger car is fine.  I parked off of a paved road, N. Bush Hwy.
Water sources: none 
Nearby peaks to bag:  Three in one day isn’t enough?  🙂
Permits: None

Profile:

stewart profile

 

 

Governor’s Peak

20161209_090752My first glimpse of the backside of Governor’s Peak (center right near the yellow cliff bands is a false summit)

With daytime highs still around 110 here in Phoenix (Hell Portal, AZ), you’d think I was nuts to be getting the itch for peakbagging season… but dewpoints and nighttime temperatures here in the desert are finally starting to creep downward.  I’ve already begun to mentally prepare for this coming season.  

So with that said, I thought I’d highlight some of my favorite peaks that I bagged last season.   And Governor’s Peak was certainly one of them.  

I began my hike by parking along Castle Hot Springs Rd. which at this point is unpaved and fairly graded.  You will have to cross a dry creek bed which the road goes over but unless it’s wet you should be fine.  I parked basically between Casa Rosa (a group of houses where desert rats live) and the actual Castle Hot Springs Resort.  Believe it or not, this resort which in the 1930s SURELY was in the middle of nowhere, and currently is only slightly less in the middle of nowhere, entertained guests such as the Rockefellers. Of note is that this is where John F. Kennedy was taken to recuperate from his wounds on PT-109 in World War II.

20161209_094518Castle Hot Springs Resort

The hike itself (route below) is fairly nondescript except the views when you enter Four Tanks Canyon are pretty epic.

Screen Shot 2017-09-12 at 9.02.36 PMThe route
20161209_100105Views on the way up just above Four Tanks Canyon
20161209_100725Summit Views

Hike Statistics:

6.40 miles
1951 ft AEG (Accumulated Elevation Gain)
1358 ft of actual gain
3:28 elapsed time

Trailhead coordinates:    33.965, -112.343
Vehicle needed: Passenger car would be OK
Water sources: none (possible that water could be in Four Tanks Canyon, but for a 3.5 hour hike I’d just take 2-3L)
Nearby peaks to bag:  Salvation Peak is approximately .5 miles NE but much more difficult and getting to it from Governor’s would be interesting to say the least.
Permits: None

Profile:

Screen Shot 2017-09-12 at 9.46.02 PM

 

Quien Sabe (Who Knows) Peak

 

20161127_092257 (1)

The summit block of Quien Sabe peak (you cannot put a price on this…)

W O W… 

This is an incredible Arizona day hike

I parked at the Cave Creek TH at the Seven Springs Campground. Since it was about 5:45 when I got there and pitch dark (and also 40 degrees), I couldn’t see well enough to know that I could have parked several other places back down the road, shortening my hike. Oh well.  Extra miles and a few AEG. 

I did the standard approach. I had originally planned to just assault the Quien Sabe Peak Ridgeline from the 246 trail up what was designated as a wash on the topo map, but that looked pretty daunting. Then I changed plans to continue to go Skunk Creek Trail and intersect with the Quien Sabe Trail on the backside of the ridge. Alas, I got impatient and left that plan at a place that looked doable. I made it up to the little prairie past Peak 4545 and then to the final push to what becomes the ridgeline. After ~30 minutes, I had made the final traverse of the ridgeline and I could see what was going to be the summit. 

Screen Shot 2017-08-29 at 8.28.02 AM

The summit block is a little anti-climactic but I was very glad to have gained it. It must have been in the mid 30s at the summit and there were so many clouds, I actually was hoping to see a random flake but alas, no. 

Then I made a fateful (for my legs) decision. Go back the way I came, which was a known route, not really that steep but would take me ALL THE WAY back down the ridge, OR descend off the summit block down what was the actual wash that leads to Quien Sabe Spring. 

Let’s see the spring he said. It will be fun he said. 

It wasn’t. 

I was literally crashing and surfing down the thickest catclaw acacia that I have ever seen. My legs don’t even look like legs anymore they are so scratched, gouged, and bloody! 

Finally, I got down near the spring proper. 

It was a *&^&%&* rusty pipe. Not even a spring or any water etc. S O A B.  (Editors note: We Arizonans geek out over water and particularly flowing water…)

But, at least I was close to where I had originally hiked and back on the 246 trail. 

After that, it was pretty much all downhill from there and I was down near the Cartwright Ranch in no time. If that was a real ranch, I’d like to work there as a ranch hand. That little valley there is beautiful. 

So, all in all a GREAT hike. This was a top 5 outdoor experience for me in Arizona. For sure.

20161127_111952

The aftermath after I was on my way back down.  It was magic.  I have to find it again.

Best Hikes in Phoenix you’ve never heard of: Mount Ord from Slate Creek

 

Ord

Ord Route

Where is it: In the Tonto National Forest and in the greater Mazatzal Mountains.

How do you get there: About 38.3 miles past the intersection of Shea Blvd. and SR 87 Beeline Hwy. about 2/3 of the way to Payson, AZ.  TH Coordinates: 33.9601, -111.39841

Lists of John link: http://listsofjohn.com/peak/17292

What kind of hike is it:  Instead of an out and back, its an up and down.  There are likely some limited connecting routes out here as well and opportunities for backpacking/overnights.

How long is it: ~15.50 miles from the Slate Creek TH to the summit and back down. (RT)

Accumulated Elevation Gain: ~4100 ft.

What trails are involved: A couple of Forest Roads. You’d have to be the worst navigator ever to get lost here…

How long will it take: Between 5.5 hours and 7 hours depending on your speed

Is it scary:  Not in the least.  This is Class 1 trail (road walk) the entire way to the summit.

What animals might you see: Coyote, mountain lion, mule deer, elk, Arizona black rattlesnake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Gila monster, white tail deer, human hunters

Do I need water:  Always as there are not really any water sources close by the trail. Bring at least 3.5L.

Who will like this hike: This may very well be the easiest 7128 foot mountain in the world to climb. It’s a good opportunity for a beginner to get their first ‘tall mountain’ exposure.  You don’t need ANY navigational skills to reach the summit.

For more info:  http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=1640

Hiking Jason rating: 4 hiking boots out of 5

This is probably the easiest tall mountain in Arizona.  It very well may be your first introduction to a ‘big mountain’ and its perfect for beginners that want to begin some elevation goals.  Very likely, for many, this may be the tallest mountain they’ve ever climbed.  The trail begins just off of the Beeline Hwy at Slate Creek.  While there are some nice views on the way up, the best views are from the summit.  This hike is what I like to call an achievement hike.  Meaning that the purpose of this hike is to teach yourself that you belong on big mountains, that you really can do 4000+ AEG in one day, and that you can hike nearly 16 miles.  Trust me, YOU can do this hike.  

Ordinarily, I wouldn’t be super excited about a hike that consists of ONLY a jeep road for the entire length of it.  But its pretty along the hike, there are some great views of the Mazatzal Mountains and you’ll be excited to be on a big mountain. And Ord is a BIG mountain.  It seems MUCH taller than it really is from the trailhead.  It LOOKS 10,000 feet, but its very deceptive.  There are tons of shady spots along the way to have lunch or take a break.

This hike is a confidence building hike.  It may be good preparation for you for climbing taller mountains in Flagstaff, the White Mountains, etc.

I highly recommend that you check out this hike.

Let me know what you think!